Tag villard de touage

Head Cheese

That’s right, today’s butchering class with Jean Luc included a lesson on how to make head cheese and regular pate. Head cheese sounds like something you might call your boss but it’s actually a delicious form of pate that utilizes the usually unusable head of a pig or wild boar. Both recipes are designed to use the parts of one animal.

Pots of Head Cheese on the Boil

Ziggle’s Head Cheese

One pig or wild boar head, complete with ears  and everything
Bay Leaves
Salt and Pepper
White Whine
Garlic

Cut the inner ears out of your head (they are dirty and you will be able to see what should get left when you look at them). Wash the head off under warm water and submerge in a pot. Add salt (a lot) and bay leaves and boil for 3-4 hours until all the meat is tender. Scrape the meat and skin off the head and chop up into small bits (let this cool while you chop garlic and prepare the rest). Add copious garlic, pepper and white wine and mix well with your hands. Pack the mixture into a terrine or glass bowl and cover. Let chill for one day in a refrigerator and pop out of the bowl to serve cold. Serve like normal pate. It sounds kinda gross, but it’s amazing.

Ziggle’s Pork Pate

Pig Livers
Fatty and bloody scraps of meat off one pig
Garlic
Cognac
Salt and Pepper
Curry Powder

Grind liver and meat bits and mix in with garlic, curry powder, salt, pepper and cognac. Mix well and pack into ceramic terrines and cover. Place terrines in a shallow pan with water and cook on 400 degrees until water evaporates (2-3 hours). Let chill and serve. Delicious.

Solo

Until January 18th I’m living alone in the mountains. Kate is visiting London until the 26th and I have a friend visiting on the 18th. The last time I spent a full 24 hours without human contact was during my freshman year of high school. My school sent every freshman on a two week camping trip for the first two weeks of school. It was a truly brilliant idea, encouraging bonds between the students that only two weeks of rugged woods-living can do. We built our shelters and furniture, cooked for ourselves and pranked each other. Now I won’t spend the entire two weeks ahead of me without human contact, but I’m hoping to spend a good chunk of it like that.

It’s hard to be on a solo. I crave human contact. I used to love working or reading in cafes just to be around other people, even though I would barely interact with them. What is it about socializing that is so fulfilling? I don’t even need to connect on a deep level, just ordering coffee seems to satisfy some hunger. Despite that, I’m excited to be alone. I hope to write more, some for the blog and some for myself. I also hope to sleep less and read more. I’m working on a daily schedule to keep me together, and away from the computer. I also have 12 secret weapons, 11 chickens and 1 adorable cat, seen here trying to get me off my laptop:

He's purring, I promise

Snowshoes

I went for a long snowshoe hike today yesterday. There was something really nice about walking a trail with no other human tracks on it.

The path not traveled

I did notice fox, deer, and wild boar tracks out there. The fox tracks ran along the trail almost as long as I hiked it, just winding back and forth. Being without any human contact for now 48 hours, the trace of a fox was a welcome travel companion. I thought I might catch up with him, but his tracks ducked into the woods downhill.

It’s like a montage over here

Being alone in the mountains has required a lot of creativity. It also has so far relied heavily on my laptop; not for mindless online surfing, but for being my tutor. I’m reminded of a Neil Stephenson book, THE DIAMOND AGE, where children are given laptop tutors to educate them in everything from day one. In any event, it’s like a freaking montage scene over here.

Today I did push-ups, baked bread and stoked a nice fire while learning French with Rosetta Stone. 1, 2, 3, l’homme court, 4, 5, 6, la femme court, 7, 8, 9, knead the dough for 5 minutes… Then came stretching, showering, shaving and writing. I’m also reminded of the movie OLD BOY. Although I’m not locked in a hotel room for 15 years and lack the shear determination of revenge, I am committed to staying sane…I will soon have a bow and arrow and target shoot in the front yard. Revenge would make this all the more meaningful.

It snowed

We had our first snow saturday night. Just a few centimeters but it’s changed the landscape here entirely.

Il Neige

Il Neige

First time I’ve had a real seasonal change in almost 4 years. I do miss California, but I like the winter too…

I have tasted Sanglier, and it is good.

I went on my first wild boar hunt in France on Saturday. My aunt hooked me up with a local bowhunter named Rocco. He’s kind of a local legend, for hunting and socializing. I couldn’t have asked for a better mentor.

Roccos on the right

Rocco's on the right

The french have a very different style of hunting wild boar. Since it’s cold in the mountains, the boar move around a lot during the day, so there’s no need to be on site and set up at the crack of dawn, as in the US. Also, since the boar are moving around a lot, they use dogs to help find and expose them. I was surprised at the size of the pups, but they are incredibly good hunters. In addition, there were about 30 people in this hunting party, spread out all over the mountain.

We saw a boar sprint by us, but with no time to shoot. The rest of the party was similarly unlucky. This hunt was more a long walk in the woods, which they often are. It was plenty nice to spend the day with Rocco, improving my French and keeping an ear to the woods.

Il marche

Il marche

Fortunately, there was a boar dinner afterwards at one of the hunter’s houses nearby. Without catching a boar, I managed to get a taste of the European pig. And yes, it is good.

Take a Hike

Kate and I spent our first fair-weather day on a hike to the nearest town, Mens. We covered 15 Kilometers there and back. It’s great to know that a day is well spent if it involves a real long walk to get bread and cheese.

Calvins Bonnet

Calvin's Bonnet

The Alps are stunning and make a wonderful backdrop to absolutely anything. Mens is a sweet little town with abundant boulangeries, fromageries and charcuteries. We stopped at the Cafe des Sports for a coffee and coke with bread and butter. Bread and butter should be a normal thing to order in the US, it’s so delicious and economical! Maybe it’s because we can’t really make bread…and we definitely can’t make it for a dollar per baguette. What the hell is up with that?

Villard de Touage, Finally

We’ve finally made it to our Winter habitat. Villard de Touage is in the Southeast of France, at the foothills of the Alps and between the towns La Mure and Mens. This photo is taken a couple kilometers away from our house towards Mens.

Les Alpes

Les Alpes

My aunt has been here for ~15 years and has set us up quite well for our winter stay. She will be traveling until March, thus Kate and I are hibernating together. I expected to have to buy food throughout the winter to eat, but my Aunt, who harvests a lot from her land, will be feeding us long after she flies off to India. We have frozen tomatoes, jars upon jars of quince, cassis, and plum jelly, handfuls of dried herbs, tins of confit du canard, squash, frozen soups, fish, and boudin (blood sausage, discovered after eating…). In addition we have eggs from our eleven chickens and, if we’re lucky, sanglier and perhaps other wild game.

I’ve been asked a hundred times if I was excited to get here and I never knew how to answer. I feel like I’ve been waiting to finally be here for so long that I can now simply breathe. The air is fresh, there are miles and miles to walk and nothing biting at my attention to wind me up. Of course, I’m still working a little and since my hunting society was in the new york times I’ve been flooded with email requests for everything. Somehow dealing with those things away from the city and outside an office has made them more manageable.

I wonder if all of us who don’t really need to be anywhere to do our jobs left the city, what would be left? We’d have cheaper rent, more savings, less anxiety and maybe less crowded urban areas. We might even have less vehicle miles traveled and buy fewer things as we would appreciate what we have by seeing the origins of our stuff in our rural landscape. We could appreciate the wild and want to keep wild spaces for us to enjoy now that we are out of the city. I wonder if relationships are more or less powerful in the country. If I surmount the language barrier, I might find out.

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