Tag france

I have tasted Sanglier, and it is good.

I went on my first wild boar hunt in France on Saturday. My aunt hooked me up with a local bowhunter named Rocco. He’s kind of a local legend, for hunting and socializing. I couldn’t have asked for a better mentor.

Roccos on the right

Rocco's on the right

The french have a very different style of hunting wild boar. Since it’s cold in the mountains, the boar move around a lot during the day, so there’s no need to be on site and set up at the crack of dawn, as in the US. Also, since the boar are moving around a lot, they use dogs to help find and expose them. I was surprised at the size of the pups, but they are incredibly good hunters. In addition, there were about 30 people in this hunting party, spread out all over the mountain.

We saw a boar sprint by us, but with no time to shoot. The rest of the party was similarly unlucky. This hunt was more a long walk in the woods, which they often are. It was plenty nice to spend the day with Rocco, improving my French and keeping an ear to the woods.

Il marche

Il marche

Fortunately, there was a boar dinner afterwards at one of the hunter’s houses nearby. Without catching a boar, I managed to get a taste of the European pig. And yes, it is good.

Take a Hike

Kate and I spent our first fair-weather day on a hike to the nearest town, Mens. We covered 15 Kilometers there and back. It’s great to know that a day is well spent if it involves a real long walk to get bread and cheese.

Calvins Bonnet

Calvin's Bonnet

The Alps are stunning and make a wonderful backdrop to absolutely anything. Mens is a sweet little town with abundant boulangeries, fromageries and charcuteries. We stopped at the Cafe des Sports for a coffee and coke with bread and butter. Bread and butter should be a normal thing to order in the US, it’s so delicious and economical! Maybe it’s because we can’t really make bread…and we definitely can’t make it for a dollar per baguette. What the hell is up with that?

Villard de Touage, Finally

We’ve finally made it to our Winter habitat. Villard de Touage is in the Southeast of France, at the foothills of the Alps and between the towns La Mure and Mens. This photo is taken a couple kilometers away from our house towards Mens.

Les Alpes

Les Alpes

My aunt has been here for ~15 years and has set us up quite well for our winter stay. She will be traveling until March, thus Kate and I are hibernating together. I expected to have to buy food throughout the winter to eat, but my Aunt, who harvests a lot from her land, will be feeding us long after she flies off to India. We have frozen tomatoes, jars upon jars of quince, cassis, and plum jelly, handfuls of dried herbs, tins of confit du canard, squash, frozen soups, fish, and boudin (blood sausage, discovered after eating…). In addition we have eggs from our eleven chickens and, if we’re lucky, sanglier and perhaps other wild game.

I’ve been asked a hundred times if I was excited to get here and I never knew how to answer. I feel like I’ve been waiting to finally be here for so long that I can now simply breathe. The air is fresh, there are miles and miles to walk and nothing biting at my attention to wind me up. Of course, I’m still working a little and since my hunting society was in the new york times I’ve been flooded with email requests for everything. Somehow dealing with those things away from the city and outside an office has made them more manageable.

I wonder if all of us who don’t really need to be anywhere to do our jobs left the city, what would be left? We’d have cheaper rent, more savings, less anxiety and maybe less crowded urban areas. We might even have less vehicle miles traveled and buy fewer things as we would appreciate what we have by seeing the origins of our stuff in our rural landscape. We could appreciate the wild and want to keep wild spaces for us to enjoy now that we are out of the city. I wonder if relationships are more or less powerful in the country. If I surmount the language barrier, I might find out.

To France

We’re off. Our flight from Boston to Dublin left Monday evening. We’re spending a night drinking guinness in Dublin and then we connect to Lyon and drive to Les Trieves.

I’ve basically been waiting 6 months for this flight. Now that I’m finally en route to a completely different life, I don’t know what to think or expect. So far I’ve been trying not to think too much. I figure everything will change as soon as I arrive and I don’t want to set up expectations for the way things might be. Like everything, a little romance is great but too much hides reality and disrupts real progress.

I started this blog with the intent of recording this trip. Along the way I’ve found dozens of other things to write about and I hope to keep those topics up and interesting. I hope you’ve had a good time reading my thoughts and I hope those thoughts get better (rather than more boring) over the next 4 months.

Nick.

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